For the Spring/Summer 2027 fashion season, Simone Rocha is focusing on developing a women's line that is more restrained, versatile and wearable.

"I rarely tell stories because it's easy to get carried away with the plot," Simone Rocha shared. "What I want is a collection that is deeply personal, reflecting my own femininity and style, a truly authentic statement about myself."
This very direction shaped Simone Rocha's Spring/Summer 2027 collection, where attention was focused on the art of tailoring and spectacular material handling techniques. It featured the combination of stiff gabardine and flowing tulle in long coats; the daring pairing of sheer dresses over shorts or underwear; and, most impressively, the transformation of soft organza into enchanting feather-effect scarves.
Continuing her choice of the historic Old Bailey for the runway, Simone Rocha found inspiration in The Taking of Christ, the oil painting masterpiece by Italian artist Caravaggio, which was rediscovered in a Jesuit dining room in Dublin. This collection also marks a significant comeback for the fashion house, presenting an independent women's collection after a hiatus, following the success of its men's line launched in June.

Simone Rocha's color palette this season continues to maintain a muted tone reminiscent of the characteristic contrasting colors in Caravaggio's paintings. Rocha has used many techniques of contrasting light and dark colors with deep reds, blacks, and blues. Alongside these, pastel colors such as butter yellow, pale pink, and lilac purple are incorporated to create the necessary balance for the overall design. In some taffeta designs, thin metallic threads are woven into the fabric's surface, creating just enough light when in motion while supporting the material's sculptural properties. Therefore, metallic hues also become part of the garment structure.

Throughout the collection, from the Caravaggio-inspired blue velvet dress to the flowing black leather jacket and the canvas-colored leather jacket, the designer framed his models with opulent necklines adorned with exquisite handcrafted roses. Roses appeared everywhere, from 3D decorative details to fabric prints. As usual, the collection exuded romance and femininity. For example, the oversized gray sweater was embellished with tiny white seashells and twisted details, while the delicate dress, reminiscent of the 1930s, was softened by the subtle embroidery on the front.
The cocoon dresses, seemingly embracing the body, are transformed in diverse ways, sometimes shortened into crop tops paired with bikinis or skirts, other times flowing like evening gowns. At the end of the collection are evening dresses with voluminous silhouettes and diverse shapes. "I wanted them all to be sculpted and impactful," says Rocha, who focused on pushing her career forward while omitting many of her signature decorative touches, creating a beautifully concise collection.

Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2027: Femininity in Contrast

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