London marks the second stop of Open Studio, the travelling program that brings Homme Plissé Issey Miyake into contact with international creative communities and scenes.

A spiral of colored areas cut out with scissors and recomposed on paper, “The Snail” (1953) by Henri Matisse, a collage of gouache-painted paper created between the summer of 1952 and early 1953, part of the permanent collection of the Tate Modern and currently on display in the exhibition “A Year in Art: 2050” , is the starting point of the capsule conceived together with the London institution by Open Studio, the project through which Homme Plissé Issey Miyake dialogues with local communities and the international creative scene. “This Open Studio presentation was born directly and spontaneously from our first encounter with “The Snail””, explains the design team, underlining how the work allowed them to “bring life to each paper cutout, transforming it into a dress”.

The collection —available exclusively and for a limited time at the Tate Modern Terrace Shop from Thursday 17 September and online at shop.tate.org.uk; and from January 2027 in selected stores in Tokyo, Osaka and London—was interpreted by the Dresden Frankfurt Dance Company with “One One One”, a format conceived by choreographer Ioannis Mandafounis that brings together a single spectator and a single performer in an improvised dance, where the continuous exchange of glances becomes the very substance of the movement. In the finale, the choreography flowed into a life-size reconstruction of “The Snail” (1953) , composed of pleated garments that faithfully reproduce the shapes of Matisse’s original cutouts, around which the performers danced one after the other.

The dialogue between Homme Plissé and the work of Matisse is less obvious than it seems. The painter drew directly in the paint with scissors and constructed movement by juxtaposing flat surfaces. The Japanese brand's pleating follows a similar logic, transforming the plane into volume through the fold. In the garments, the lesson of the cut-out is thus translated, once again, into a wearable geometry.

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Reimagines Henri Matisse at Tate Modern

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Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Reimagines Henri Matisse at Tate Modern

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