Among the protagonists of the LVMH Prize 2023, Luca Magliano talks about his relationship with Bologna, fashion and art, which he finds: «bad, bourgeois and odious».

&laquo;Working in fashion has never been a dream when I was a child. I developed an interest in design and at one point I fell in love with Barbara Nerozzi, an <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/portraits/joseph-dirand-architect-projects-who-is" target="_blank" rel="noopener">architect </a>who taught at the Polytechnic who became my mentor. He directed me by telling me about the values of the fashion project that I found fully in my comfort zone&raquo; , says <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/fashion/magliano-fashion-show-man-autumn-winter-2023-24-collection-photo-look" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Luca Magliano</a> , Luchino for his friends, who this year was selected among the finalists of the LVMH Prize 2023 . He describes himself as an extremely controversial person, the result of a very specific cultural heritage located in Bologna. It offers a rough fashion that has to do with a dimension full of history, experienced and almost magical. L'OFFICIEL ITALIA: What did you learn from your first work experience from Alessandro Dell'Acqua? LUCA MAGLIANO: Being in the office, I remember that I was tense and I had met valuable people, including Francesco Risso . It was a short but significant experience, then I returned to Bologna permanently because my boyfriend was here. I found myself out of work, I had many interviews that didn't work and I thought it was important to start something personal, partly as a provocation but above all because of the need to continue working in this area. I presented my first collection, I participated in Who's on Next, we won it and everything started in winter 2018, without a business plan but riding the wave of a strong emotionality that apparently is still driving. LOI: Reading the description on your new site I am struck by the definition "disheveled look". What do you mean? LM: The references we make are never formal and the relationship we have with design is strongly anti-materialistic. Messy seemed like a nice way to say rough. The clothes our customers wear are garments they have slept in for a night, the sensation they must give is that they are dealing with something real, not something that has just come out of the <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/fashion/longchamp-opens-its-first-boutique-in-marrakech" target="_blank" rel="noopener">boutique</a>. My experience with style is not linked to high-end glamour, I want to celebrate reality because I know it well and it has a lot to say.

LOI: What is Bologna for you? LM: A beautiful place where I lived my adolescence and the discovery of my sexual identity. I had the opportunity to interact with symbolic places of the LGBT community such as Cassero. Then there are other places that have been closed such as the XM24 social center. Bologna taught me the spirit of: “you can do it for €5” you don&#39;t need to go to a boutique, just go to Montagnola (the vintage market near the station, ed). If we wanted to be ladies, we wouldn&#39;t be able to do it anyway. He taught me to care about the causes of others, or at least to look at them without pretending to live in another reality, because it is a shared territory: workers&#39; rights are in the streets together with women&#39;s rights and those of homosexuals. It is as if it were a laboratory of people who look and listen to each other, it still has a strong political identity, there are still many intersections between different social classes and for me it is very relevant. I am homosexual, I belong to the working class, this is my story and I want to claim it with pride. LOI: You are considered one of the most political designers on the contemporary scene, on which issues do you feel most aligned? LM: For Magliano there has never been a lawsuit on which we spent ourselves as a brand because I&#39;ve always thought it could be interpreted as instrumental. I don&#39;t want to, fashion isn&#39;t a political territory because it spreads political messages, but it becomes so when it celebrates ethics with aesthetics. If I had to think of one topic that guides us, it is the fragility of people, like that of clothes. LOI: How have you cultivated your irreverence in your life? LM: As if it was something I never wanted to leave. It certainly comes from a way of channeling anger, which is certainly my mark as a human being. My most irreverent side is a small personal treasure that I don&#39;t want to give up. At first this trait came out aloud, now more subtly and punctually.

LOI: What is your relationship with art? LM: Terrible, most of the time I find it bourgeois and hateful. It sucks, but we in Magliano work with many artists. However, on our collection wall there are art heroes such as Judy Chicago with her way of representing feminism, or Joseph Beuys with his ability to tell the story of work. I hate going to vernissages unless there is someone I trust who recommends and encourages me to go. LOI: But you dedicated the F/W 2023-24 collection to the artist Luigi Ontani&hellip; LM: Ontani is an extraordinary piece of Bologna. I'm from Sasso Marconi and he's from Grizzana Morandi, I saw him on the street, he was a vision, dressed in glittering shantung with crazy colours from head to toe. Everyone could go to him to talk to him, shake his hand and confront him. LOI: Who are your favorite stylists? LM: At the top is Franco Moschino because he refers to the intellectual nature of fashion and has been able to interpret commitment, in the highest sense of the word, with incredible grace. Then I studied the work of many other designers who have left their mark on our culture, such as Walter Albini and Miguel Adrover.

LOI: If you had to name some personalities who have influenced you? LM: Of the writers, I love reading. I would say Sandro Penna, in my opinion the brightest poet in the world: mad, gay, who died without teeth because he refused to put in dentures. <text class="_textbox_1titd_17" direction="ltr" height="7.41999816894531" lengthadjust="spacingAndGlyphs" textlength="249.138771057129" x="86.6068954467773" y="-65.1461944580078" data-test="textbox"> Antonio Gramsci, Pier Paolo </text><text class="_textbox_1titd_17" direction="ltr" height="7.42001342773438" lengthadjust="spacingAndGlyphs" textlength="149.489898681641" x="350.042327880859" y="-365.146240234375" data-test="textbox"> Pasolini, Angela Davis and Cesare Pavese.</text> LOI: How does your creative process work? LM: We match objects to people in a catalogue: given a certain topic we start selecting objects, details and clues that don&#39;t concern fashion and we organize them in a catalog by type. This becomes like an abacus of the elements we are going to use every time we work. Finally, we happen to redistribute a series of looks or focus of the collection on a series of archetypal imaginary characters of Magliano such as “L&#39;Operaio” or “La Frocialista” with all its parure. LOI: What are your guilty pleasures in terms of fashion? LM: I am obsessed with decorum. The first collections were more maximalist, now I try to dose my pulse. Feathers, fringes, grandmother&#39;s trimmings, various bullshit drives me crazy. I have very little relationship with my wardrobe, I wear a tank top in the summer and a scout sweater in the winter.

LOI: How important is the cast of models to you? LM: We represent a certain type of humanity, the people we hire always have cinematic qualities, we talk a lot with our models and explain the message we want to convey. For us, a look without the right interpreter means nothing. For some seasons now we have been working with the dancer and artist Michele Rizzo with whom we studied the &quot;Magliano&quot; walk, a brief that has remained open and that we want to develop from season to season. Usually during fashion shows there are many people who are disinterested, our goal is to ask for attention, so even the gaze of the models becomes a performative element that creates tension between the viewer and the brand.<div class="adL" style="text-align: justify;"> LOI: And the greatest satisfaction of your job? LM: The team, if I turn around and look back at what has happened so far, I notice that more often than not people have wanted to contribute by taking on a lot of stress. And this excites me a lot.</div>

Magliano's Interland

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