Moschino Spring/Summer 2027 marks a new chapter under Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, where Franco Moschino's legacy is approached through proportion, structure and whimsy rather than the revival of familiar symbols.

Spring/Summer 2027 marks the debut of Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo at Moschino, after leaving Sunnei. For their first collection, the two designers chose not to recreate Franco Moschino&#39;s most recognizable hallmarks. Instead, they studied how the founder viewed fashion, then sought to translate that approach into the present. Their guiding principle was &quot;not to recreate or imitate&quot;: using the archives as a laboratory, not a template.

This approach was evident in the show&#39;s setting. On the roof of a parking lot in the suburbs of Milan, models walked the runway while hundreds of passersby, dressed in their own clothes, continuously walked in the opposite direction. These weren&#39;t professional models, but rather images of everyday life juxtaposed with Moschino clothing. The idea was quite direct: fashion shouldn&#39;t exist in a world separate from the wearer. Rizzo and Messina wanted the clothes to belong to real people, not just the runway. Therefore, the collection doesn&#39;t try to create a new Moschino by covering everything with iconic symbols. Suits, jackets, shirts, trousers, t-shirts, and denim form a foundation that&#39;s quite close to everyday wardrobes. The difference lies in how the designers handle proportions and shapes. There are extremely wide trousers, almost covering the shoes, standing alongside skinny jeans, shorts, and Bermuda shorts. Some tops are designed differently from the usual body proportions, creating new shapes without complex techniques.

The body itself became one of the places where Moschino SS27 incorporated unique design elements. A form-fitting dress with white star patterns on a blue background was structured to alter the wearer&#39;s actual shape. Another dress mimicked the rigid outer frame of a dress, historically used to create voluminous women&#39;s clothing in Europe. In men&#39;s wear, T-shirts were padded to accentuate muscles or create oversized hips and buttocks. The collection, therefore, not only adorned the body but deliberately altered how the body is perceived.

Color is another layer of the collection. Orange, yellow, red, green, electric blue, and pink appear with high intensity, but are placed alongside brown, black, cream, white, and olive green. Therefore, prominence isn&#39;t the sole principle. An outfit might start with a relatively conventional jacket or trousers and then be pushed in a different direction by a bold splash of color, graphic print, or asymmetrical combination.

Handcrafted details and embellishments are also used to alter familiar pieces. Graffiti motifs are combined with embroidery and beading, fringes appear on dresses and trousers, while some designs exploit pleating and voluminous techniques. Accessories continue to play a significant role, most notably the black cat-shaped bag worn as an object close to its true form. It retains Moschino&#39;s characteristic absurdity, but doesn&#39;t rely on a slogan or logo to create an effect.

The most noteworthy aspect of SS27 lies in the fact that Messina and Rizzo don&#39;t try to prove they understand Moschino by echoing Franco Moschino. Franco himself used the fashion system as a target of satire, taking logos, brands, luxury goods, and dress codes and turning them into tools to question the industry. With the new generation, the humor shifts from direct visual games to the structure, proportions, and use of clothing. Therefore, Moschino SS27 is not a nostalgic collection. It attempts to retain the most difficult thing to replicate in Franco&#39;s legacy: the ability to question fashion through the clothing itself. When a dress distorts the body, a pair of trousers alters leg proportions, or a cat-themed bag reflects a love of taking pets everywhere, the humor no longer lies in the story told outside the garment. It lies in the way the clothing is designed and worn.

Moschino SS27: Back to the Fundamentals of Design

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